▶ Previous Artlcle : #1-1. What we should know about shampoo
Among anti-inflammatory shampoos, a product containing clobetasol propionate, which is a corticosteroid with anti-inflammatory activity, has been released. With 0.05% concentration, this product is commonly used for the treatment of scalp psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis. In patients with scalp psoriasis, it can be used daily and then twice a week once the lesion has improved. For seborrheic dermatitis, it can be used twice a week. After one month of use, if the lesion does not respond to the product, it can be discontinued, but it normally does not cause any significant side effects even after a long-term use for up to six months. There are also many other types of shampoos for different needs of the user, from deodorant shampoo for removing foul odor from scalp and hair to nutritive shampoo for providing nutritions to scalp and hair, brilliance shampoo for shiny hair, and soft touch shampoo for silky hair.
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Besides detergent, shampoos also contain foam booster, thickening agent, conditioning agent, fragrance, colorant, antiseptics, sequestering agent, etc. Among them, foam booster helps the foaming of the shampoo so that the detergent could be easily spread along the hair, although the foam booster itself is not a detergent. A thickening agent retains the viscosity of shampoo. Conditioning agent enhances glossiness, silkiness and flexibility of hair. Fragrance and colorant are associated with the scent and color, and antiseptics maintain the preservability of shampoo. Sequestering agent separates magnesium and calcium from water. Without a sequestering agent, the residual scum may cause itchiness of the scalp and even seborrheic dermatitis. Most shampoo products come in a clear or milky liquid form because it has to be washed away with water. However, there are other forms of shampoo, such as gel, cream, pearl, paste, aerosol, powder and even solid soap.
Powder shampoo is a dry shampoo for cleansing hair without water. The powder material, mostly a mixture of acid clay, kaoline, magnesium carbonate and borax, absorbs fatty substances and exerts cleansing activity. To use the powder shampoo, first sprinkle the powder on the scalp and hair, remove the powder by brushing 20-30 minutes later, and then clean out the residual powder with hair tonic. Another dry shampoo is aerosol shampoo, which is gently shaken and sprayed on hair. The residual shampoo is removed two minutes later by towel drying or brushing.
The scent of a shampoo is not relevant to the cleansing function but is helpful for elevating the mood as a perfume does. Men are often attracted to the fragrant smell of shampoo on women’s hair. Scent is an important factor in selecting a shampoo, and everybody has different expectation of a scent from a shampoo. Some prefers sweet fragrance while others prefer fruity scent like orange or lemon, flowery scent like rose, milky scent or even the scent of oriental medicine. People may prefer a subtle scent or strong fragrance. Scent may last only for a short time or a longer period.
Recently, there is a growing number of patients willing to purchase or even make themselves a home-made shampoo with natural ingredients, out of the concern about side effects of chemical shampoos. Natural shampoo is made from natural materials, mostly herbal substances that have been passed down as folk remedies or aroma essence oils.
I do not believe it is necessary to favor one over the other. It is hard to say natural shampoos are always good and regular shampoos are always bad. People can avoid possible harmful effects from shampoo if they could read the ingredients and find the right shampoo that does not contain harmful ingredients. After all, everything has its own pros and cons.
People with sensitive scalp and damaged hair should avoid sulfates since they are very strong detergents. Parabens had been considered an ideal antiseptics but is now disappearing from shampoo ingredients due to reports that they may cause allergic reaction by contact and even breast cancer or influence the reproductive system by working like a female hormone. Among other antiseptics, formaldehyde is now used relatively less due to the report of possible skin and mucosal damage and bronchial inflammation. Benzophenone was also used as an ingredient for preventing the denaturalization of scents and exposure to ultraviolet rays. It has been reported to be carcinogenic and teratogenic, but there is no need to be overly worried since they are also disappearing from the ingredient list.
When purchasing a treatment shampoo, it would be wise to check if it indeed has the marketed effect on the hair and scalp. The main purpose of a shampoo is cleansing. Other active ingredients are added in small amounts with the hope that they would provide some degree of effect. Shampoo stays on the hair for about 5 minutes while the hair is being washed. This is not enough time for the active ingredients to be absorbed in the scalp. Ten minutes of shampooing is enough for anti-dandruff shampoos and 15 minutes for corticosteroid shampoos. It would not be very easy to leave shampoo on the hair for 10-15 minutes. The activity of treatment shampoos may also vary depending on the condition of the scalp, size and concentration of the active ingredient, composition of the shampoo, and the efficacy of the active ingredient itself.
In addition to the cleansing effect, scalp condition and fragrance, another factor for selecting a shampoo is the cost. Customers may purchase shampoos from a store or online. The general shampoos that are commonly used are affordable, but treatment shampoos are mostly high-priced.
The key aspect of maintaining a healthy scalp and hair is to wash the hair with a shampoo that best suits one’s scalp and hair condition. Patients need to be advised to use a conditioner so that any hair damage from shampoo can be minimized and to dry their hair thoroughly after washing.
-To be continued-
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